Как было и как стало. Центральный холм.
Наша постоянная исторически-аналитическая рубрика «Как было и как стало» возвращается с одним из самых «масштабных» выпусков. На этот раз речь пойдет о целом «микрокосме» – городе внутри города, а именно центральном холме, границы которого обозначаются с двух сторон улицами Большой Морской и Ленина.
Нет никакого сомнения, что тихие, с уютными двориками и чарующей глаз архитектурой, улочки холма – одно из самых приятных мест в городе для неспешной спокойной прогулки.
Во всяком случае, глядя на приведенное выше фото советских времен, спорить с этим не хочется никак.
Отношение севастопольцев к центральному «гиганту» всегда было любящим, внимательным. Сюда и по сей день практически не добрались кричащие рекламные выставки и прочие неприятные признаки суеты.
Центральный Владимирский собор – символ всего, чем хорош и славен наш холм. Он возвышается над всем Севастополем, достигая в высоту 36 метров над уровнем моря. Собор, как известно любому севастопольцу, имеет ценность прежде всего в качестве усыпальницы четверых славных адмиралов.
Полюбуемся «архивным зрелищем» храма.
Эта фотография, по всей вероятности, – самая старинная в нашем обзоре. Узнает ли кто-нибудь здесь не то что конкретный храм, а вообще город Севастополь?
И еще одно славное старинное фото.
Вообще же центральный холм нередко принято считать «объемной летописью истории города». Каждый уголок здесь имеет одновременно историческую, эстетическую и общекультурную ценность.
Многие признают, что это место в полной мере сохранило дух советских 1970-х, когда случился своего архитектурный и культурный «мини-ренессанс» всего Севастополя. Интересный контраст с этим общим впечатлением составляют памятники архитектуры, относящиеся еще к царской эпохе.
Неоклассические колонны и барельефы – история всей русской скульптуры и архитектуры проходит перед глазами любого, кто прогуливается по живописному холму.
Однако не всегда холм был местом, где царит тишина и уют. Как ни дико это звучит, но горка в XIX столетии носила говорящее название «Хребет беззакония»! На холм карабкались один за другим бедные домики, трущобы, в которых жила беднота, в то время как аристократы обживали улицы вокруг.
Конец этому беспределу положил М.П. Лазарев, который поручил перестроить холм в неоклассическом духе и очистить от трущоб. Результаты его славной деятельности заметны невооруженным взглядом.
Архитектурные жемчужины на холме разместились в завидном количестве. Вот, к примеру, уникальная, выстроенная в греческом стиле Петропавловская церковь. Не стоит забывать и о знакомых всем «живых символах» всего города – Башне ветров, которая чудом уцелела после пожара в Морской библиотеке, и памятник Казарскому, «потомству в пример». Да и без статуи Ленина город уже как-то сложно представить.
Однако времена меняются.
Вот, к примеру, Синопский спуск близ штаба Черноморского Флота РФ. Подразумевается, что по лестнице будут прогуливаться семейные пары, любуясь расстилающимся видом на моря.
Однако на деле под ногами на лестнице, как и на большинстве других подъемов на холм, валяются бутылки и окурки, а служит спуск не местом для прогулок, а местом шумных массовых сборищ.
Такие картины, увы, можно наблюдать и среди лесопосадок близ Синопского спуска, и наверху – у памятника Ленину. Во многие дворики на холме нельзя зайти без ключа, и владельцев ключей несложно понять: в открытых дворах вскоре образуются аналогичные стихийные свалки.
Центральный холм держится до последнего, однако что с ним будет в будущем, учитывая безалаберное отношение людей к окружающему миру, – большой и проблемный вопрос.
Возможно, в один прекрасный день городским холмом уже нельзя будет «хвастаться» перед приезжими. Жемчужина русской и советской архитектуры, уникальный уголок и «город в городе» покроется слоем выброшенного в траву пластика и сигаретных «бычков».
Как вы считаете – заслуживает ли наш славный холм такого исхода? Как вам видится прошлое холма, его эволюция, и каким вы бы хотели видеть его в будущем?
Seva, какое великое дело! Спасибо огромное, за труд и интелектуальный (статьи, архивы, фото) и физический (организация и уборка свалок)! Успехов вам! Так держать! Вы отличный пример для воспитания наших детей, да и нас самих. Любить город – это не только слова!
Елена, это все благодаря Вам! Без неравнодушных людей ничего бы не было
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